Thread: Hard noise epic w

Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 29
  1. #11  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    MOSCOW
    Posts
    181

    I did the same as you did. Recorded a black screen and put iso 12800. Here's the result. Very different from your swill
    Reply With Quote  
     

  2. #12  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    MOSCOW
    Posts
    181
    Phil Holland Come to the rescue !!!! ((
    Reply With Quote  
     

  3. #13  
    Moderator Phil Holland's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    12,016
    Quote Originally Posted by Aleksandr Frayman View Post
    Phil Holland Come to the rescue !!!! ((
    I'll take a look when I'm done with Cone Gear today. Be back I. A few hours. (From my cell)
    Phil Holland - Cinematographer - Los Angeles
    ________________________________
    phfx.com IMDB
    PHFX | tools

    2X RED Monstro 8K VV Bodies, 1X RED Komodo, and a lot of things to use with them.

    Data Sheets and Notes:
    Red Weapon/DSMC2
    Red Dragon
    Reply With Quote  
     

  4. #14  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    MOSCOW
    Posts
    181
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Holland View Post
    I'll take a look when I'm done with Cone Gear today. Be back I. A few hours. (From my cell)

    Phil, I'm really looking forward to you.!!!!
    Reply With Quote  
     

  5. #15  
    Senior Member Steven Dean's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    135
    There are a couple of things that are going on in this image (aside from improper Black Shading as possible culprit)...

    This image is underexposed, and frankly, this is a good testament to the power of the R3D - it's really fairly clean considering the underexposure, and you can absolutely get a very useable image from it IMO. As good as the new sensors are, you still have to expose properly, and feed some light to the sensor. White balance is also an issue here... Metadata is at 5600 with a -8.100 tint. With a shot like this (and really any new setup), I highly recommend shooting a chart, or at the very least a grey card - lighting conditions such as this can be a pain to try and balance, though it is possible.

    Exposure:

    Pay attention to your "Goal Posts" - the more the left fills up, the more noise. Same thing on the right as far as overexposure is concerned. Aim for the "Fat Negative," or the "Mountain in the Middle," as much as possible within the shot limitations. Once your histogram is pegged too much to one side, or the other, you can expect "problems."




    I love RED's exposure tools - they are very intuitive, and if you utilize them correctly, you can avoid situations like this.

    RED has some great tuts on their website:
    http://www.red.com/learn/red-101/red...exposure-tools

    http://www.red.com/learn/red-101/exp...or-zebra-tools

    http://www.red.com/learn/red-101/exp...th-red-cameras

    I highly recommend viewing all of them, it will only make you better, and as much as these cameras can be forgiving exposure wise, it's still important to expose properly.

    I'm also a fan of the Gio Scope:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpl9G82hE0I


    If you run into a situation with an underexposed shot like this, you can also use Neat Video to help and clean it up a bit. Here is my two cents on Neat Video - use it at the lowest settings possible, once you have done the analysis. I'm talking at 5% for the actual noise reduction - I often set it to zero (it still works in this case, and will often remove just enough). Of course, that won't always be enough, but you also don't want to go overboard on it. I have found that utilizing the most minimal amount will give you the best results without loosing too much detail (I personally never go over 10% unless absolutely necessary).
    Last edited by Steven Dean; 06-03-2017 at 07:44 PM.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  6. #16  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    London & Los Angeles
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by Aleksandr Frayman View Post
    One more question. I did an automatic calibration, it seems like the truth is getting much better! I will do the tests. But the question. Is it the first to leave the temperature at 44 degrees? And I will use Slow Motion and Shutter Speed ​​1/200 respectively. Do I need to do another calibration or not? Automatic calibration all done by yourself?
    AUTO takes longer as it does all the speeds & shutter configs so you can shoot at most speeds & shutter combinations without doing further calibrations.
    If during your shoot one combination sends your sensor/camera temperatures red then do a MANUAL calibration (5mins) to bring them both back to green.

    Quote Originally Posted by Aleksandr Frayman View Post
    Thank you for such a lovely response! I have already started automatic calibration at 44 degrees. Tell me. After calibration I have to leave Adaptive on 44 degrees or lower up to 37? It's summer and always warm. Do I need it?
    No problem, Yes, always set your ADAPTIVE FAN to the same temp as you calibrated to...in this case 44 ADAPTIVE.

    HOT WEATHER: If you find ADAPTIVE 44 can't maintain 44 in hot conditions then go to manual & raise the fan speeds, this works well. make sure the fans aren't blocked or partially blocked with accessories etc.

    COLD WEATHER: Using tape to cover fans in the cold to maintain 44 works very well.

    I saw your screen grab & yes it looked noisier than mine but still VERY good for a solid black image pushed 4 stops.
    How does that same fluorescent scene look with the piano/keyboard now? or any scene? :)
    Stuart Graham U.S.
    Stuart Graham Outside of the U.S.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  7. #17  
    Senior Member Russ Fill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    World wide working
    Posts
    1,667
    It is underexposed but you can get a pretty good looking image out of it. And as mentioned noise reduction software can clean up just about the rest.

    In D Resolve you can use the noise reduction there if you have a paid version. It works very well on Red Footage...
    On your Color page you should see a Star looking icon next to all the other adjustment icons, Camera, Color Checker, Color Wheels, RGB Mixer then the "Star" Motion Effects.
    Under Spatial Threshold you can un link the Luma and Croma and adjust them... Sort of a good start for Red footage I have found is Luma 2 and Chroma 10..
    This is all to test and you should experiment and maybe even watch a few tutorials maybe on Resolve noise reduction. You can also use other noise reductions.
    Epic Forged Monstro (Camera 101)
    Epic X (Tribal)
    mindsetmedia@mac.com
    https://vimeo.com/user4448312
    Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/russfill/
    Reply With Quote  
     

  8. #18  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    MOSCOW
    Posts
    181
    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart Graham View Post
    AUTO takes longer as it does all the speeds & shutter configs so you can shoot at most speeds & shutter combinations without doing further calibrations.
    If during your shoot one combination sends your sensor/camera temperatures red then do a MANUAL calibration (5mins) to bring them both back to green.



    No problem, Yes, always set your ADAPTIVE FAN to the same temp as you calibrated to...in this case 44 ADAPTIVE.

    HOT WEATHER: If you find ADAPTIVE 44 can't maintain 44 in hot conditions then go to manual & raise the fan speeds, this works well. make sure the fans aren't blocked or partially blocked with accessories etc.

    COLD WEATHER: Using tape to cover fans in the cold to maintain 44 works very well.

    I saw your screen grab & yes it looked noisier than mine but still VERY good for a solid black image pushed 4 stops.
    How does that same fluorescent scene look with the piano/keyboard now? or any scene? :)
    I just spotted something. I did the calibration at 3200 Kelvin . And when I translate 5,600 in RCX then the noise becomes smaller when the test at 12800 ISO. Maybe I should again do the calibration, just for the 5600?
    Reply With Quote  
     

  9. #19  
    Moderator David Battistella's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Florence, Italy
    Posts
    9,998
    Color temperature has no effect on black shading calibration.

    Two things effect black sharing.

    1. Temperature
    2. Shutter time or angle I.E.: 1/48th and 1/500th require two different calibrations.

    David
    "Colors are the wounds of light."
    -William Blake
    Reply With Quote  
     

  10. #20  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    MOSCOW
    Posts
    181
    Quote Originally Posted by David Battistella View Post
    Color temperature has no effect on black shading calibration.

    Two things effect black sharing.

    1. Temperature
    2. Shutter time or angle I.E.: 1/48th and 1/500th require two different calibrations.

    David
    I grooved to 180 degrees. That is, if I need to shoot at 100 frames per second , I need again to do the calibration? Also.. why do I have so much noise despite the fact that I do the same thing what a man was doing that I suggested? What could be the difference? Is there still time to do it?
    Reply With Quote  
     

Posting Permissions
  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts