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  1. #31  
    Junior Member Mark A. Jaeger's Avatar
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    DSLR time-lapse (T-L) and RED T-L with frame processing have few things in common with respect to the mechanics. Obviously the basic principles of T-L shooting apply equally but the "doing" is different with frame processing. The comments below are based upon my DSMC2 Monstro. Here are some things to consider:
    a) As Chad found above, shooting 8K with frame processing is not possible on the present DSMC2. The information highway has a speed limit. If you want the full range of 16 frames processed, you'll need to go to 5K. This means an effective focal length change.
    b) Frame processing is applicable to continuous shooting and Internal Timelapse Timer Mode.
    c) On my Monstro I can select 1 second shutter and 1 fps. I don't know why 1/2 second was stated as the maximum in David's post above. The 1fps + 1 second shutter is the most light you can get to the sensor (that I am aware of) without frame processing.
    d) Fast Glass is really important to low light shooting with RED. You want f/1.4 or T1.5 glass. I also use the low light OLPF as it gives a small additional benefit. What would be easy-pie on a Nikon D850 is not so simple with RED.
    e) Within Frame Processing there are two choices: Frame Summing and Frame Averaging. Both have applicability to low light work (e.g. Astrophotography). For either FS or FA you can select 2, 4, 8 or 16 frames to process.
    f) In the case of FS, the summing increases the brightness, respectively, about 1, 2, 3 or 4 stops. With FS, the noise is also summed. As such, it is my experience that 2 or 4 frame frame summing is about all I want to do because of the noise build-up.
    g) In the case of FA, the frames are averaged. There is no appreciable increase in brightness. Noise is nicely reduced as the averaging will greatly reduce non-repeating anomalies.
    h) When you shoot FA with a 1 second shutter and 1 fps, the DSMC2 will force the fps to roughly 1 divided by the number of frames to process. If, for example, you select 16 frame FA, the resulti will be 1/16.15 fps.
    i) motion blur can be an issue. My goal is to NOT have star trails. There are calculations to determine for a given lens and sensor pixel pitch how long the exposure can be before you have pixel crossings. It is way shorter than the Rule of 500/600. A 30 second astro shot will result in slightly sausage shaped stars. If you want star trails, you need to work it within the limitation of a 16 second exposure.
    j) With f/1.4 lens, 1 fps, 1 second shutter, ISO800, and no frame processing I find that nice Astro shots are possible. With a higher ISO, I use 4 frame FA. If the light is just not enough I have used 4f-FS on several occasions with discernible but acceptable noise.
    k) As Thomas points out, 16f-FA will take awhile to capture frames. 16 seconds per frame is a lot of time compression (1 : 384 @ 24 fps viewing). Four frame FA yields what I think is an acceptable 4-second interval.
    I hope this helps.
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  2. #32  
    Mark,
    Thank you so much for sharing your experience. Let's hope that Komodo will also have a time lapse (FS/FA) function.
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